Chef Kiko Carlos Francisco Zeballos

Written by Margaux Cintrano

Chef Kiko Carlos Francisco Zeballos

The Incas, the Spanish conquistadors, the indigenous tribes, the South and North Americans, Asian immigrants, Europeans and the African slaves have all had a turn in merging the phenomenal rich gastronomy that is now Peruvian alta cocina "nuovo andino". Having explored the elongated Andean coastline, the highlands of Cuzco and the Inca ruins of Machu Pichu back in the 1970´s, I have always fancied the highly flavourful seafood varieties and slightly piquant Peruvian cuisine.

Baylee Simón and I were invited by Manager Miguel Novoa and Chef Kiko Carlos Francisco Zeballos to sample the dynamic Andean cuisine of both Gastón and Astrid Acurió in Madrid.

Our first question was, can you tell us a little about Gastón & Astrid Acurió? Miguel and Chef Kiko told us: Gastón Acurió, is the Ferrán Adriá of Peru and furthermore is a award winning entrepreneur, restaurateur and celebrity TV chef who owns several vanguard stylish Cebicheriás and restaurantes, a laboratory and culinary institute like Adriá and the international Restaurant Gastón & Astrid, which has been rated as one of the top five in South America. With approximately 500 staff and increasing. Gastón´s small empire has been growing up in a parallel direction, as Chef Ferrán Adriá has been, and with a motivating upswing in pride and enhanced interest among Peruvians in their extraordinary food culture. Gastón has been making novel use of traditional Andean ingredients and giving international dishes a Peruvian flavor, for example: quinoa risotto or stuffed gnocchi with casava and yellow chili, called aji amarillo.

Gastón is actively involved in his country´s community projects including designing stalls to assist low income earning traders in Lima who are using them for selling the well known Lima street foods, ceviche, local Andean sandwiches and fresh seafood. Magazine La Economía America bestowed upon him, the world´s best Entrepreneur 2007 award. In Lima he has a über stylish Peruvian Cevichería called La Mar on Calle Miraflores in Lima´s city centre where he belts out over 110 Peruvian traditional dishes at reasonable prices. For example, his ceviches cost between 8 - 10 Euros. His lady Astrid is a magnificent Pastry baker and dessert maker.

Miguel and Kiko explained to us that Gastón owns restaurants in: Lima, Santiago de Chile, Quito, Bogotá, Panama City, Caracas and Madrid. He is going to be opening Gastón y Astrid´s in the following cities in the Spring of 2008: Barcelona, London, San Francisco, California, Buenos Aires and Mexico City D.F. One good way to explore the regional flavors of Peru, is to have the Taster´s Carte, as Miguel and Chef Kiko suggested to Baylee and me.

Chef's Recommendations

Cava Starter:
White wine:
Red wine:
Violet Andean sweet corn bread
Fresh white Ricotto cheese, green olives & extra virgin olive oil dip
Baby yellow Corn Bread, Cereal whole wheat & French Baguette
Baylee´s amuse bouche Palate opener: blue corn chip topped with quail egg & ham drizzled with reduction sauce
Sea scallop ceviche
Causa Limeña Antigua: Peruvian potato stuffed with lime escabeche marinated Ventresca tuna
Flame seared octopus with casava foam and aji panca ( the grill gives the octopus its beautiful sear )
Grilled scorpion fish ( cabracho )
Chicken corral with lime, aji & walnuts spicey stew
Oxtail Criollo
Chica Morada ices: pineapple, blueberry ices with guanabana fruit foam & cinnamon
Chocolate Truffles & coffee icecream in Tempura
BRIT Peruvian Espresso
Cocktail: Pisco

Side By Side With Chef Kiko Zeballos

Mar: Where are you from Kiko ?
Kiko: Sullana on the northern coast of Peru.
Mar: What inspired you to become a Chef and where have you studied?
Kiko: Firstly, my family is in the fishing industry. I was studying business administration and realized I disliked the whole subject. I decided to go to Le Cordon Blue in Lima and utilize my creative talents. Then I met Gastón Acurio and here I am in Madrid.
Mar: What is your culinary philosphy?
Kiko: To give pleasure and ecstasy to each diner and to interpret and bring out the artistic representation of our heritage with unique touches.
Mar: What are your specialties ?
Kiko: Peruvian ceviches, appetizers and rices.
Mar: What Peruvian products do you utilize?
Kiko: The spices and the herbs, for example, Cilantro and the Andean Peppers. Peruvian Potatoes of course.
Mar: What are your objectives for 2008?
Kiko: To continue working as a Chef at Gastón & Astrid In Madrid and though not an easy task, to become a 1 Michelin Star restaurant.
Mar: When is your birthday?
Kiko: Like Chefs Alberto Chicote and Pedro Larumbe, I was born under the sign of Cancer, signifying the kitchen and the hearth on July 13th, 1981.
The carte is a good representation of the country´s varied healthy and colorful cuisine which can also be enjoyed in their lovely Feng Shui, crude and earthy color palette. You will find the lounge and cocktail bar upstairs for smokers. The fashion plates a la carte 11 - 30 Euros. The well referenced wine carte offered here pairs well with this slightly piquant cuisine. The Taster´s Carte is 65 Euros per person excluding wines and gratuity.