| Dunedin |
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Dunedin, pronounced "done eedin", not only is the 4th most important city but also the 5th largest in New Zealand, however they figure that out. We thought people were pulling our leg when they said it has four seasons in a day, but, indeed that is the case, and yes, we saw penguins! No kidding. It's a charismatic, off beat, bustling little city with about one hundred thousand people living in the valleys and hills that surround the city center. Interestingly enough, the city council controls a vast area of land in this neck of the woods, making it one of the largest cities in New Zealand. Dunedin is located at 45.5 degrees South, which puts it on par with Northern Oregon. The city has a large, deep water access at Port Chalmers for containers while other small vessels can use the inner harbor and park, just next to the train station. Dunedin is also known for having the steepest street in the world. The city has many old Edwardian and Victorian style buildings in the downtown core, as well as beautiful homes along the main streets leading off of it. The downtown core consists of the Octagon plaza, the main shopping strip which contains a variety of shops, little malls, pubs, cafes and other unique boutique style clothing and jewelry stores which carry one offs that are collectible and other items you might not expect to find. It being a college town it has a movie theater, a pub on every corner and many nice restaurants that you won't find anywhere else in that region. Dunedin is refreshing in that they still have quite a few "Mom and Pop" stores left in town. There are a few major chains, but for the most part things are pretty local, or at least NZ based. A few blocks from the commercial center of the city is the hospital and University of Otago. The university is a highly regarded and possibly the oldest in NZ. The campus is very clean and beautiful to walk through during a sunny, warm day. Between 1879 and 1930 a number of Gothic buildings were built to house the newly formed university, which was neatly contained in one, single, city block. In the 1960s and 70s the university expanded towards the downtown core.
Train StationNot far from the university, there is a quaint train station. It was so well designed in Flemish Renaissance style, it earned George Troup a Knighthood. The building is made of beautiful local stones called Oamaru, complimented by basalt and Scottish granite. Across the street we discovered the Law Courts which were constructed a few years before the train station, and a red brick police station, said to be modeled after New Scotland Yard. The Taieri Gorge Railway operates out of the station taking tourists up and back stopping at different points for pictures. The 10 tunnel, 34 bridge journey up the gorge and back again takes about 1/2 a day. The English and Scot influence is strong in Dunedin. No wonder, the weather is the same! People here love their long, sunny, hot summer days and although they are few, when it does get hot, it gets really, really hot. We experienced four seasons in one day. It sleeted, rained, then warmed up and got so hot we had to wear shorts, t-shirts, sandals and sunscreen! The PeninsulaThe Otago Peninsula is home to many sheep, cows, penguins, seals and sea lions. The large beaches on the pacific ocean are home to many colonies of birds and sea life. Albatross grace the wind above you at any given time. They are truly a giant in the air. The beaches in most parts are inaccessible and bordered by cliffs, which help protect the animals from too much human interaction. Dunedin city center sits at the end of a larger bay which is quite shallow. Only can small craft use the inner harbor and must stay near to the shore when entering or exiting from the ocean as the water is the deepest there. AccomodationSince we were to be in NZ for three months, we decided to do some house sitting. We signed up on www.housecarers.com and it worked out great. We applied and were chosen for a five week house sit in Dunedin. We agreed to pitch in for utilities while taking care of a fabulous home high above the bay. Ruth, a college professor, owns the home. We thoroughly enjoyed her stylish perch which had 3 bedrooms, 1 bath and an office. We took care of this beautiful place along with it's chief feline resident, Minnie. The garden was also producing vegetables and herbs which needed to be tended and eaten. Our salads from the garden were quite tasty, and the spices were rich in flavor. Situated in McAndrew Bay on a hill facing the city centre, this castle had views to die for and in the distance you could see all the way down the bay to the ocean a few kilometers away. We spent gorgeous summer days in the easy tend garden and cool summer nights staring up at the stars. Beholding the Southern Cross from as far down as Dunedin was a treat for even us amateurs. It is as special a constellation as the big dipper is in the Northern hemisphere. It made us feel almost like we'd left the planet in a way because it made the sky look so different. The only constellation that is seen from both hemispheres is Orion's Belt. Those three stars were the only familiar ones in the sky at the height of summer just above the South Pole, but we didn't care, we were on an adventure and we were open to the cosmos and they were showing us their finest. Not to mention, the incredibly kind owner had us stay a couple of extra days after she returned just to get to really know us since we were filling in as parents to Minnie and her lovely daughter Kate. Our dear Kate, who is attending law school, would come by to visit. Each time she would end up bringing a flat mate of hers just for fun. She was always ready to tell us about Dunedin, and even babysat Asha a few times. People in NZ are a breed apart. They must be the kindest in the world. They are open to meeting new people, experiencing new cultures and doing it all with a smile and sense of humour you just won't find anywhere else. House sitting was a lovely experience that we would encourage any responsible person or couple/family to try. It saved us a pretty penny and we made new friends, the kind you keep for life. Restaurants & ShopsRestaurants in DunedinThe lovely lady whose house we were taking care of has a daughter, Kate, who volunteered herself and her friends as babysitters, so we were free for a date. Pepper Blues is a wonderful restaurant. They have two sittings for their fine fare so make sure you call ahead for reservations because it is popular. It's a perfect getaway spot for when you just need a really fine meal and detailed, friendly service because it's your night off. We'll say it again, you will have to call ahead to be sure a table is ready for you. It was a quiet Tuesday night just before Christmas and we got lucky and got a spot for the first sitting when we walked in, but usually this is not the case. The fish and the lamb dishes were both excellent and left you craving for a bit more. Even though you were full, you didn't care... you wanted MORE! Our side of asparagus was also done to perfection. The white and sparkling wines that were suggested by our waiter were perfect compliments to the meal. The desert was gluten free and went down quickly. Our after dinner drinks of hot chocolate and a decaf cappuccino made for a nice finish to a perfect evening. We were the first through the doors for dinner so we had the entire restaurant to ourselves. Many Chinese patrons came through and took food away which was a good sign. We made it clear that no MSG was wanted in our food. Our host said that would not be a problem but in NZ due to the large Asian population, many dishes are cooked with it in the restaurant. She was incredibly helpful in navigating the menu so we got a great meal. We ordered a few dishes, shared until we had eaten our fill and walked out satisfied, with little smiles on our faces. The kind of satisfaction that only comes after fulfilling a craving that you've had for a while, a long while. This is a classy, cool, great burger joint. The fact that Dunedin is a college town demands a great burger. As a matter of fact, we must conclude that it puts even the better burger joints in the US on notice! The menu is simple and the burger toppings are thoughtful. The patties are certainly respectable and the burger bun is huge. It is more than enough to satisfy an average college student, (or two), after a drinking binge on the weekend, which is what this joint is all about. It is a licensed establishment and there is a funky, hip bar downstairs. We ate at the one just off the Octagon but as we drove around the city we saw other locations. There is no need to get fries unless you are sharing a burger with a friend, then and only then you might just have room. Also, take note: The Ceasar is not a salad... It's a massive, Colosseum of a burger. Hope you're hungry! Shops in DunedinThere are the usual major retailers in the city, New World and Countdown for groceries, Kmart, Farmers and of course plenty of banks along the main shopping streets. We also have visited shops like Kathmandu for hiking gear, Refind Rig, Baby Divine, Yaks & Yetis and others that can only be found in New Zealand or Dunedin. WebcamsThese are stills from a number of webcams located throughout the city of Dunedin, Port Chalmers and surrounding countryside within city limits. Refresh the page to see an updated stills.
The Salt Water Pool at St Clair is seen with the beach and surf conditions behind. You can also see St Clair Esplanade with it's shops, cafes and restaurants.
The Octagon is located in the center of Dunedin. On the right you can see a statue, behind it is a museum and the movie theatres. All around the Octagon there are hotels, shops, restaurants and cafes.
PromoDunedin is widely regarded as the best preserved Victorian and Edwardian heritage city in the southern hemisphere. It is also home to some of New Zealand's top fashion designers and vibrant cafes and bars. The Clock Tower at the University of Otago, New Zealand's oldest and most pre-eminent University, tolls the hours for the lively students who make up almost a fifth of the city's population. |